Friday, August 13, 2010
Day 36: Watch out. Pedaling Feat is half way there!!
Day 35: Pedaling Feat takes on Northern Ontario!
August 2, 2010
Before we continue, there is something you should know about Pedaling Feat. We have an affiinity for lakes. Especially Mel. And as we cycled into Northern Ontario, south on Highway 71 towards the US border (leaving the bustling Trans-Canada behind!), we were surrounded by water. There wasn't a kilometer that passed by where we didn't see a body of water. Whether it was mom, dad or baby lake (seriously), or a creek or river which connected them. The rides have just gotten better and better.
I rode to Sioux Narrows that morning (a cute little town with water on each side) and loved every minute of it. This area is also known as Ontario's Sunset Country, as well as a 'Water Lovers' Dream'.
Taking a break at Bunny Lake.
From Sioux Narrows Mel continued along the quiet highway to Nestor Falls. This town is known for the finest fishing and hunting in North America! Unforunately, Mel and I had forgotten our rifles and rods at home, so we settled on a picnic bench next to the pituresque Nestor Falls, the towns' other claim to fame.
Nestor Falls. In Nestor Falls, ON.
Mel, climbing hill after hill as we roll through Northern Ontario!
From Nestor Falls we rode to our stop point for that day - Caliper Lake.
I wish I had majored in literature studies or creative writing in University, because then I would
at least have a hope of describing this gem of a place.In short... It was like cottage country, without all the cottages. Or being handed a freezie, on a humid 40 degree day, after battling it out on the soccer field. Or winning the Stanley Cup! (poor analogy, because really, nobody in Ontario can remember what that feels like). It was all the good things about the outdoors wrapped up in one awesome little parcel called Caliper Lake.
We parked at our campsite which looked out onto the lake, two small islands and Caliper Lake Provincial Park. After jumping in for multiple swims, Mel and I jet out in a canoe to tour the islands. As we arrived at the first island, our canoe skills failed us as we tried to park up next to the dock. Fortunately for us, the lady who lives on the island pulled us into shore so we could say hello to her 3 lovely pups. Her husband, kind as he was, offered us a beer and a tour of his beautiful island. We were like two Alices in Wonderland. It was breathtakingly beautiful.
Canoeing around Caliper Lake.
We left the family to their happy little island and canoed back into shore to head into town for some ice cream, fries and internet! While on the phone with my sister, I was distracted by three bald eagles flying overhead, a family of loons fishing in the lake and a water plane (which appeared to be several decades older than Lois) attempting to take off. Everything about this place was magical.
Enjoying the view.
Sunset. Caliper Lake. Beautiful.
If the weather cooperated, we decided we would hang out in Caliper lake the following day. So after a dinner of veggie dogs (keeping in mind we'd already eaten a mountain of ice cream and fries), we watched the sunset and head to bed.
Days 33 and 34 - On to Ontariariario!!
Our apologies for the delay in blogging. Northern Ontario does not believe in high speed internet.
Enjoy!
Lisa and Mel
July 31, 2010 : Winnipeg, MB to Whitemouth, MB
Just the two of us once again, I began the ride that day towards the Ontario border. I loved Winnipeg so much I decided (subconsciously) to take a detour. We followed highway 59 out of the city. I however, was enjoying the ride far too much and kept following the highway, while Lois (taking the correct route), turned off onto Highway 44 towards Elma, MB. About 5 km past the turn off, I noticed my mistake and turned around. It was then that I realized why I had been enjoying the ride oh so much. The ride back was slow as I rode directly into the headwind that had once been at my back.
Once I had reunited with Mel and Lois, we continued along the straight, flat roads towards Elma.
With Mel on her bike, roaring to go, I drove off in Lois. Along the way, I spotted a massive deer (horns and all) at the side of the road. Not wanting to miss the opportunity, I pulled off the road and hopped out of Lois to take a few photos. I watched the deer (from across the highway) eat a savory shrub, paying no mind to me. It was amazing.
Deer in the wild. I did not race this one - although I think Lois would have won.
Elma, home of the infamous midwife Lydia Pajuinen.
We reached Elma only to realize that there were no campgrounds in town. So we continued onto Whitemouth (another 20 km or so). At the campground we found a large herd of drunken ball-players who were in town for a slo-pitch tournament. The campground was jam packed for the night so we drove around the quiet streets of Whitemouth until we found the perfect camping spot... Whitemount School. There we parked Lois and plugged her in before heading out for slushies and a beer at the local pub.
Whitemouth School. Our parking spot for the night.
After a delicious dinner of veggie dogs and corn, we went and explored the campground. There we found the Whitemouth Museum (of Agriculture?) with all sorts of neat artifacts that we believe were once used for farming.
Mel, taking stock of farming equipment used back in the day. They had quite the collection in Whitemouth.
August 1, 2010: Whitemouth, MB to Kenora, ONTARIO!!!
After a rather sleepless night (the once quiet streets of Whitemouth were taken over by the Slo-Pitch Scallywags), we got up a little later than usual and set off, a little crakier than usual.
The day improved as Mel kicked the ride off on a road that was essentially abandoned of traffic, and the scenery changed from stark plains to winding roads, hills and forest - Could it be? Were we nearing the border of Ontario??? The highlight of the ride that morning was a bear siting! Well, there were two. The first, a bear cub that had been hit by a vehicle, lay at the side of the road. Wondering if the mother was near, Mel pedaled onwards, keeping an eye out for an angry momma bear. Shortly after, she spotted a black bear in the bush. Fortunately, it backed away as soon as it spotted Mel's threateningly large legs.
Something else we spotted along the way? One of our front-runners for 'Top 10 Canadian Road Signs'. Every little town we have passed through has their claim to fame (we may have mentioned this in previous blogs). Whether it be the band Nickleback or the coach of the men's national archery team. This town however, claimed to be famous for absolutely nothing. It was the town of Rennie. And we loved it.
The town of Rennie. Home of something... or somebody famous... someday... maybe.
Riding (safely) in Manitoba! Whiteshell Provincial Park
We switched up riders halfway through the day and it was only a matter of kilometers before we hit the Ontario border.
What does crossing into Ontario mean to Pedaling Feat?
1. Roads with shoulders again! Hoorah!
2. Change in scenery. Hills, forests and winding roads!
3. The chance of seeing new wild creatures. Black bears, beavers and moose galore.
and 4 (the big one)... We are nearing the halfway point of our Cross-Canada adventure!!!
We were both extremely excited to cross the Ontario border that day.
Pedaling Feat venture into Ontario!
We booked a spot at Willows Campground which was just past the town of Kenora. We were back on the Trans-Canada highway (Translation: oodles of traffic and very large 18 wheelers, but a great shoulder) and gradually the sky clouded over and let loose. Despite the rain, I pedaled to our final desination, at which point the sun came out and there were blue skies all around!
We spent the evening doing yoga and handstands. All in all, it was a day full of small victories!
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Day 31 - The PEG, Reunions, and A Fancy Hotel!
Thursday, July 29th 2010 - Lynch’sPoint, MB to Winnipeg, MB
The morning started off pleasantly with endless sunflowers lining the highway.
We met our driver and long time friend from McGill, Irwin, just outside Portage La Prairie (pronounced withOUT a French accent - correction made by Irwin who grew up in Winnipeg). About 10km outside of Portage, I got my first flat tire of the trip (!), and we had some roadside trouble getting it fixed. So I rode in Lois for the next leg of the ride and tried another tube... same problem. Long story short, Lisa rode by herself to Winnipeg while Irwin and I caught up during the drive.
Irwin getting to know Lois en route to Winnipeg!
What a gentleman!
We checked into our fancy shmancy hotel, the Fairmont Winnipeg (sponsored) with some luggage help from our Driver/Sherpa and got some lunch at a delicious basement joint called the Underground Cafe. Those who visit Winnipeg MUST try a Sunburger at this spot (open only Mon-Fri, 9-4 pm, no joke).
That afternoon we hung out with Lisa’s good friends Rachel and Kerry, who were in the midst of preparations for Rachel’s sister’s wedding. We hitched a ride back to the hotel and decided to go to a nearby pub called the Kingshead where Irwin, Phil, Ilana and her sister Tim with bf Johnny came to meet us afterward. Let the Reunion begin!
Kerry fixing our "Cyclists Ahead" sign that had blown off.
Thanks Kerry!
Friday was our day off! We hung out at MEC on Portage St. with Renee the bike mechanic for a bit (tire issue), then we had a serious reunion-fest with the boys from university! It was so good to all be together again after 5 years of being scattered about. We ate at a deliciously orange diner, Kelekis (another must-eat in the Peg), and chatted about life and who’s doing what. It was superb!
Reunion at Kelekis with Irwin, Nick, and Phil!
This rad bike was bought at a yardsale and given to Charlotte (Rachel's mom) as a child. It was sold when she grew up, and spent years with another owner. Then, recently, she found it at another yardsale!
Friday afternoon, Lisa and I headed back to the Rachel's mom's and ate a delicious vegan meal between groceries, laundry, and fixing Lois’ fallen sign... productive day? I think so! Did I mention we went back to the hotel for a dip in the rooftop saltwater pool and hot tub? Thank you Fairmont, you were wonderful!
All in all, Winnipeg is a vibrant city with lots of hot spots, trees galore, and great service in the hotel and restaurant industries.
Monday, August 2, 2010
Days 29 and 30 - Friendly Manitoba, Not-So-Friendly Roads
Still flat...
The day was going relatively smoothly until Lisa started riding at the half-way mark. She turned North onto HWY 10 and the previous luxury of a tail-breeze was replaced with the challenge of a head-breeze. We arrived in Brandon, the second largest city in Manitoba, and stocked up on some necessities before heading out again. In an effort to avoid unpaved shoulders, we tried the Trans-Canada, which lasted all of about 600m when the shoulders disappeared yet again as the semi’s roared by at arm’s length. We decided it was best to continue on HWY 10 North toward the secondary HWY 16 which would take us toward Winnipeg. As soon as Lisa turned North, however, we realized that the earlier “breeze” had become a seriously ferocious “wind” that just wouldn’t let up. So, after some effort, we packed it in, turned around, and stayed in Brandon for the night.
Despite our quasi-unsuccessful afternoon, we were feeling energetic and went for sushi at the local Japanese hot spot. Hooray for cities!
A sign for Dauphin, MB which has significance because my grandparents lived there briefly in the 1940's (air force base).
Also, it's where Rachel and Kerry are from!
Wednesday, July 28th, 2010 - Brandon, MB to Lynch’s Point, MB
Earliest start of the trip yet! Lisa was on the road by 6:40 am in order to defeat the previous day’s challenging road. Luckily the wind was non-existent at the wee hours of the morning. We continued through farmland and prairies to Lynch’s Point located on the southern shore of the massive Lake Winnipeg.
And.... still flat...
Memories from Lynch’s point include:
- Nap on a sandy beach
- Kids toting newly found water snakes to show mum
- Avoiding swimming because of possibility of water snakes
- Longest walk to the bathrooms ever
- Campground staff driving around spraying a thick smoke to repel mosquitoes
- Cooking Indian in Lois
Day 28 - Another Day, Another Province!
Monday, July 26th 2010 - Carlyle, SK to Souris, MB
I biked the first half of the day and by 10am it was already 33 degrees! I had a nice tail wind for the first 20 km or so which made me feel like Superwoman.
Superwoman
Lisa was riding when we crossed into Manitoba early in the afternoon, where HWY 13 becomes HWY 2 and suddenly the paved shoulders disappear into thin air. Sadly, most of Manitoba’s roads have gravel shoulders (which are simply impossible on a road bike). Lisa (the brave one), was fine with the situation, keeping close to the white line, as truck drivers gave her loads of room when passing. I, on the other hand, made her stop in intervals of 5 KM in order to merely keep my sanity. At the end of the day, it really didn't seem so bad, and we made some future route adjustments to avoid such situations in the coming days.
Lisa, crossing the border into MANITOBA!
Souris (locally pronounced Soo-Riss) is the first semi-major town along Manitoba’s western HWY 2 whose claim to fame is a suspension pedestrian bridge that straddles the Souris River. We stayed in the Victoria Park campground and enjoyed being surrounded by large trees, a nice change from the past week's terrain. We went for a swim in the river before checking out the suspension bridge. That night we cooked delicious portobello and swiss cheese veggie burgers (size XXL) with a side salad (yum). We woke up in the middle of the night to torrential rain and sheet lightning that was extremely impressive, brightening the sky as if it were mid-day. It looked like a waterfall outside of Lois, so our bikes got a very thorough cleaning.
Suspension bridge in Souris, MB
Day 27 - We Heart Surprise Visits and Drive-In Movies
Sunday, July 25th 2010 - Yellow Grass, SK to Carlyle, SK
Lucky for us, Lisa’s friend and former co-worker, Curtis, showed up to meet us in the village of Yellow Grass, SK. Despite being en route to Vancouver, he was kind enough to backtrack for a few hours to drive Lois eastward with us that morning.
Pedaling Feat with Curtis!
Lisa and I, very happy to be cycling together again, passed through the town of Wheyburn, SK in which my main recollection is the strong smell of toast (perhaps they have a massive bakery in town?). We rode on HWY 13 where the landscapes were scattered with mechanical pump jacks, aka “nodding donkeys”. A very nice couple on their way to check on their land stopped to donate, saying that they recognized us from CTV News (Regina).
Nodding Donkeys Everywhere along HWY 13
Curtis left us around noon, and we continued cycling to Carlyle, SK. We stayed in the local campground which had a nice public pool. Since it was around 30 degrees that day, we took advantage of the local DQ and, of course, the pool.
Later that night, we took Lois to a drive-in movie! It was a popular event, with cars lined up along the road for about an hour before the movie began at dusk (Toy Story 3). We enjoyed a spacious retreat in Lois, happy to avoid the swarming monster-sized mosquitoes that hung out around Lois’ windshield.